Thursday, December 17, 2009
Americans Rock
The best part about being back is being around so many Americans. I've spent the past year observing Vietnamese people through the lens of my American identity, comparing their customs and manner to that of Americans. Being gone for a year, you start to lose touch a little with what Americans are actually like, and I missed interacting with them all the time.
Coming to San Francisco I was just cracking up laughing at so many people that are ridiculous in their own way and are the type of characters that I just don't see in Vietnam. Some aging hippies on the flight, some polite thuggish looking guys, a 300+ lb dude with a pony tail, skater punks,nascar enthusiast guy, beer guts, and yes even the uber-cool hipsters: they all tripped me up laughing and made me so happy to be back.
Most people I've talked to say that the novelty of being back in the USA usually wears off after about two weeks. Maybe. Right now though all I can think is: America rocks!
Top Five Things I Missed the Most (In Descending Order)
1. My family and friends. Obviously.
2. Zaxby's sauce
3. A short break from work
4. Cheap golf
5. Not fearing imminent death traveling from point A to B
I can't even think of 5 things I didn't miss right now. Maybe prices. For example, SIM Card + minutes in Vietnam: $4 ; USA: $64. Seriously, that's bullshit.
Lastly, for the record and for my parents, here's a video Julia put together about our climbing of Mount Fancy Pants (or Phans Xi Phan if you're a stickler). It was a 15km hike to the top of the highest mountain in Indochina. I came to regret bringing a huge backpack with tons of stuff I didn't need (like four hardcover boks... for "options"), but it was an amazing climb. It was a tough climb though, I could barely walk for a week afterwards after taking on steep paths and terrain for 30km during two days. The video is just some flip camera footage while climbing with a healthy focus on our somewhat-sketchy tour guide:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGGipJuv_oM
Wednesday, December 16, 2009
Post-Accident Motorbike Return & Interesting Trip to the Old Quarter
This post isn't about that, but the short story is that the front of my bike was cracked, the driver of the other car spent five minutes pointing at invisible damage to his car before trying to extort some cash out of me. I won't even go into the fact that he took my keys from me (I could have punched him for that), that it was partly his fault, and that I was the one hurt and bleeding. He left his car in the middle of the intersection and pretended to call the cops, I refused to pay him or let on that I knew Vietnamese, and we were at an apparent stalemate, with both of us sitting on the side of the road presumably waiting for the cops to come.
The cops weren't coming, and after 15 minutes on the side of the road, his extortion strategy had failed and he gave me back my keys. The worst part about the whole affair were the old Vietnamese dudes sitting on the side of the road laughing at the stupid westerner who'd driven into a car. Anyways, with a bloody knee and bruised ego, I continued on my merry way to work.
A week later, it was time to return my rented bike since I was departing for vacation at home the next day. Growing up in America, I've got it ingrained in my soul that auto-mechanics were born to rip you off, so I was a little worried about returning my damaged bike and having to pay for repairs. This turned out to be no big deal, as the entire front shell of the bike was fixed for only $26, much less than the $100+ that I had suspected it might be.
But the real treat was what happened on my way back. Vietnam's soccer squad was playing in the semi-final of the Southeast Asian Games, a big deal for the Vietnamese. Before heading out to the old quarter to return my bike, I'd seen that Vietnam had beaten Singapore 4-1. When I reached one of the main roads leading to the old quarter, the road was packed with people riding their motorbikes carrying gigantic Vietnamese flags, honking their horns, and laughing and shouting their heads off. I realized that I was headed to the same place they were, the old quarter, and I was dreading the nightmarish traffic that awaited.
As I continued making my way toward the old quarter, the shouts and laughs of my companion motorbike drivers gradually shifted my mood from annoyed (at traffic) to a celebratory, and by the time I reached the old quarter I had my helmet off and was laughing and shouting with everyone else. I knew this kind of scene doesn't happen often, so I bought a huge flag from one of the dozens of entrepreneurial individuals that magically appeared with large inventories of Vietnamese flags, paid him $3 for it and joined the madness of traffic hooting and hollering and driving around the lake.
Challenges
I think I've discovered an anecdote that I've been applying for the last few months: giving myself specific, short-term challenges. Maybe "discover" isn't the right word, but I do think I've atleast made an admirable attempt putting into action a wide-range of different challenges. Below are a few examples of ones I've done, and at the end I've listed out a few that are potentially on the horizon. I'd love to hear any ideas you have for new ones, as this is a process that I don't plan on cutting short anytime soon.
Here they are:
Hanoi Fear Factor Challenge: There are tons of kinda crazy/weird stuff to do in Hanoi, but on any given day you're just not going to feel inclined to say, eat duck embryo. So, when my brother was here we created and did the "Hanoi Fear Factor Challenge". This consisted of riding around town and completing a range of events, which were:
1) Eating dog: yes, that's right, I've eaten dog. This will be the subject of an upcoming post, but let me say two things: first, these aren't cuddly poodles, they're dogs that were bread like you might breed chickens. Second, it tasted terrible, which was mostly due to the shrimp paste that comes with it, which reminded me of throw-up.
2) Eating Snake: after eating dog, the snake tasted like a slice of heaven. After they kill the snake in front of you, they drain its blood and gall bladder juice into little shot glasses. These are good for your "virility" and "health", though I think I was still feeling a little queasy afterwards. Also, the snake's heart continues to beat after it has been removed from the body. I ate that as well, and really all I could think about was how much better than dog it was.
3) Paddle Boat Races: The next challenge was a paddle-boar race around one of the lakes in Hanoi... it sounded like a great idea, but you've got to work so hard to go so slow in those things. We were all drenched in sweat by the end of it.
4) Eating Duck Embryo: These are basically almost-born duck-eggs that they cook. When you bit through them you can definitely tell that there was a duck in there. This particular challenge led to a lot of gagging on my part, but eventually I was able to eat the whole thing.
5) Bia Hoi Challenge: Bia Hoi is fresh beer brought to "Bia Hois" around Hanoi daily. The challenge was to drink $2 worth of beer. Since they cost $.16 each (3,000 dong), the challenge was to finish 12 of them the fastest. Granted, they're a little watered-down and the cups are maybe half of the size of a bottled beer, but finishing off with a few beers was a great way to wind down the day.
My brother brought his nice camera around and we filmed a lot of this. He's been busy working on another project, but hopefully we'll finish it over break and I'll post it.
Water for a Week Challenge: Pretty straightforward, don't drink anything except water for a week. After four days of only water, I couldn't turn down some rice wine at the base camp of Mount Fancy Pants (ok, Phan Xi Phan) after hiking 15km to climb it. I got something out of those four days.
Vietnamese Food Challenge: I've never been a huge fan of Vietnamese food, though I had definitely found a few dishes I liked. Still, I never really craved it, and as a result I often ate western, Indian, or other Asian fares, with some Vietnamese dishes in between. But there were so many things I hadn't tried, so it became a challenge. Eat only Vietnamese food for one week. Many people do this all the time, as it can be delicious, its cheap, and oh yeah, they're in Vietnam. I decided it was time to see what's out there.
This one I did for five days in a row before caving. I think I was out one night and didn't have much of a choice, and then that turned out to be a slippery slope. But during those five days I discovered a ton of foods that I wished I'd found months before. You don't even have to win a challenge to benefit from it.
Fasting Challenge: I know this one sounds a little weird, but one day I read something about a religious fast, and then realized that I'd never been compelled to fast in my life before. I had never even gone for one day without eating food, so I thought I'd see what it was like. The night before it started, I went to My Burger My, the best burger in Hanoi, and chowed down as the clock approached midnight. The next day was easy, I was hardly hungry after the midnight feast. Day two began with some unease, and throughout the day I wasn't aware so much of being hungry as I was just jolted into being so awake and alert, my body was just running on adrenaline. That night I was starving, and I remember thinking that this part of the hunger was what it was all about, I couldn't stop thinking about food. I woke up at 5am the next morning in a sweat, and I knew it was time to quit. I got dressed immediately, set out chugging a big bottle of water and looking for a cab. Traffic that morning was terrible, and while idling amidst a sea of motorbikes in the old quarter, I threw open the door and threw up bits of nothingness onto the street. The cab driver turned around, I gave him a reassuring nod and told him I was fine. Two minutes later, fifteen yards further down the street, again threw up.
When I finally made it to the Highlands Coffee by my work, I walked in. As soon as I opened the door I cut the wait staff off by ordering a ham and cheese omelet and a coffee. When it finally arrived, I managed to get two bites in before throwing up again all over the floor. It was kind of ridiculous.
So, in the end I kind of got what I came for: a taste of what its like to not eat for two days. Not something I'm keen on trying again any time soon, and definitely not for two whole days, but not an entirely regretful experience either. What did I learn? Not eating for two days sucks, and if you don't eat for two days, don't end your fast with a ham and cheese omelet.
OK, that's all I can remember so far.
Upcoming Challenges
- Be a vegetarian for one week
- Some kind of fitness challenge?
- Reading challenge
- 4 Hours of Sleep/Night for 1 week challenge
- Blog writing challenge?
- [your suggestion here]
Also, I heartily welcome all fellow challengees... do some of these with me, we'll laugh, we'll cry, we may throw up, but we'll definitely have a good time.
Thursday, December 10, 2009
Lessons in Learning Vietnamese
Presently, I'd call myself conversational. I can usually get what I want wherever I go, I can participate and follow basic conversations, and I can express complex ideas, though usually in some weird "walkaround" way. Since I study every day, I've made a ton of progress, and at this point probably speak the equivalent of what someone would after studying for 2 years in university. Maybe that's just me stroking my own ego, I never can tell.
Anyways, Vietnamese is a really tough language. Its got five tones (flat, rising, falling, wavy, and question mark-y... don't ask). Check out Tila Tequila speaking Vietnamese if you want to hear an example and be entertained(? not sure that's the right word):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xkyfM3UZBnI
Like I was saying, its a tough language. The tones are really difficult to hear, and if you don't say them *exactly* the way you're supposed to then noone will understand you. Seriously. See #3 in this post for an example: http://www.carpeminutam.com/2009/03/25-random-things-jess-in-vietnam.html
Anyways....
Coming to Vietnam, I knew I wanted to learn the language. Vietnamese is only spoken in Vietnam, Vietnamese restaurants the world over, and quite a few nail salons in the U.S., just living in the country is justification enough to study it. Most people here don't speak English, or if they do its likely that the English they do speak is tortured and limited, so learning Vietnamese can make your life here significantly easier.
A quick and obvious example: there are 17 pronouns in Vietnamese, and the correct one to use is determined by your gender and relative age. Embedded in these pronouns is a core component of Confucianism, relationships. Your relationship to others determines your duties to others (e.g. student to teacher, father to son, brother to brother), and in Vietnamese you can't say something without first establishing what that relationship is by using the correct pronoun. In my experience, typically you are either "em", "anh", or "chi". "Em" is for someone younger than you, but is also used when speaking to waiters or people serving you somehow, even if they're older. "Em oi!" (literally hey you [younger]!) can be heard at every restaurant, as people are continuously shouting at their waiters from across rooms to get their attention. "Anh" is simply an older male, and "chi" an older female.
The last benefit I'll mention is the pure intellectual pursuit of learning another language. I hated studying languages in high school, and Spanish was my Achilles heel grade-wise: I may have gotten one non-B in Spanish through all of high school. I enjoyed learning Latin in a different way (and in fact my affection for Latin is reflected in the name of this blog), but generally speaking I found language study tedious, useless, and boring. Simply being able to apply what I was learning has made studying the language tedious, practical, and interesting. Two out of three ain't bad.
I've tried a few different ways to make learning Vietnamese more interesting. One is that I type all the words I learn into a Google Doc, and then download them to my iPod Touch. I've got a program on there that makes flashcards out of the words, tracks which ones you get right and wrong, and then reshuffles the wrong ones over and over until you get them right. If you've got an iPhone or iPod Touch, download GFlash Pro, and you can make your own flashcards out of anything. Its a great way to study whatever while you're on the go. Wish I'd had that growing up.
I also recently started a group, titled "Tieng Viet WhaWhat." Apparently the name has caused a lot of confusion, which personally I find hilarious. As a good friend pointed out, there's probably only a certain 5-year age span that gets that, and most of those people aren't in Vietnam. Anyways, the idea is simple: host a bi-monthly dinner and everyone that shows up is only allowed to speak Vietnamese. You get to meet new people, hoc tieng viet (study Vietnamese), and hang out and drink beer at the same time. Its been a lot of fun, and I'm looking forward to more of them.
Alright, I think thats enough for now on learning Vietnamese. Câm ơn và tạm biệt! .
Wednesday, December 9, 2009
A Privacy Threat You Probably Don't Know About (and should)
1) People you don't know having access to your personal information
2) People taking your "identity" and using it for bad purposes
3) Websites building "profiles" of you and tailoring their services around information you don't want them to have
These are valid concerns, of course, and mainly revolve around people you don't know getting personal information about you and using it.
There's also another concern, illustrated by a grad student's discovery 15 years ago that 87% of Americans can be identified with only their birthdate, sex, and zip code. It's an interesting story and you can find it here. The concern is that someone you've trusted with information (knowingly or unknowingly) can link it to other information they have and get personal information about you.
I'll give you two examples:
1) Online surveys: If you've ever taken an online survey and entered your email address (for instance to be entered for a prize), its very simple for someone to look at each of your individual answers based on your email address. More nefariously, if you send survey invitation emails through a service like SurveyMonkey, they create a unique link for each email address. Thus, even if you don't enter your email address, the person giving the survey can still see which answers YOU gave.
2) Website traffice statistics: Let's use my blog and my dad as an example. Let's also say that I want to see how much my dad really loves me, which I'm going to judge based on how many times he checks my blog.
I track the visitors to my website using Google Analytics. My dad lives in Anderson, SC, and I'm pretty sure that noone else living in Anderson is checking my blog. So, I just sign in to analytics, set the date range for this year, and check the traffic detail for Anderson. So, dad, just how much do you love me?
In the case of the internet, you've often got to choose between the greater of two goods (or the lesser of two evils), balancing privacy and relevancy, safety and convenience, anonymity and personal interaction.
Sunday, December 6, 2009
Thought Experiment #231
Tuesday, December 1, 2009
The Tribulations, Observations, and Consternations of a Motorbike Rider in Hanoi
The hierarchy of the road here is quite simple:
( Bus > Car > Motorbike > Bicycle > Pedestrian ) < immovable obstaces
A few insider tips for driving a motorbike in Hanoi:
1)I go faster than most traffic, which means that I don't have to worry about people passing me, which is a significant source of danger on the road. By going 10km/hr faster than everyone, I can focus on the traffic from the other direction and obstacles in front of me. The only way to know about traffic coming from behind you is through sound (or light at night), so eliminating this worry makes the fact that I listen to music/ podcasts while driving a little bit safer.
2) While I go faster than most traffic and seize all "gaps" presented in traffic, at intersections you've got to slow waay down. Intersections are the most dangerous place on the road, and you've got take it easy going through them.
3) If turning left, use your [censored] turn signal. Also, don't do it from the middle of the right side of the road, where people passing on your left will slam into you as you cross the lane to turn.
4) Understand that traffic signals are casually ignored by many people, so don't assume everyone else is stopping as you move forward after a red light.
5) Buses are bigger than you, and don't care about you, and won't think twice about running you over. Also, I think some taxis have an active deathwish for their fellow motorists, so be prepared to swerve out of their way.
1) Accidental "off road" driving: coming home late one night, I was speeding along the empty streets and didn't see a sharp turn ahead. The sidewalk barrier was sloped upward reasonable, so instead of trying to make the sharp-turn, I turned my bike toward the sidewalk, since there was grass on the other side and it was safer than hitting the sidewalk barrier at an angle. Came to a jolting stop in the grass, and by "jolting stop" I mean I eventually fell over going at about 4mph. Embarrassing and novice mistake, but glad I handled it well and turned out OK.
2) Tight turn fall-over: Again late at night on empty streets, tried to make a sharp turn around the temple of literature a little too fast. My tire pressure was low, so when I put the bike at an angle it just fell right over. I wasn't going that fast, but had a little bruise on my leg and my ego.
3) Pedestrian crash! Yes, while returning from work one night I hit a pedestrian. Luckily for him he was a strong and stout guy, luckily for my crash statistics, he jumped out from behind another car and I had no choice but to hit him. It was definitely his fault. I was going maybe 10-15 miles per hour before I slammed on the brakes and then hit him. He went sprawling maybe three feet, then jumped up and sized me up angrily. My first reaction was "Are you OK?". That was settled pretty quickly, and I couldn't help my next reaction: anger and nervousness. It had been a scary situation that could have ended much worse for both of us. I then shouted "Mat cua anh o dau?", which means "Where are your eyes?". There was little else to do, so I drove off thanking my lucky stars.
4) T-boned at an intersection: Again coming home from work, was t-boned by another bike at an insane intersection that sees six streets come together in an incomprehensibly unorganized way. At any given point, there are 100 motorbikes and 20 cars at this intersection, all taking the path of least resistance. I'd almost made it across, and was passing in front of a car when someone slammed into my left side. Somehow my bike stayed upright and the other person fell. But, they nailed my foot. I stopped for a moment, looked back and saw that the lady was OK and already was putting her bike upright, so I resumed going home. My foot was swollen to twice its normal size for a week, but eventually the bruising went away.

I'll close by noting that motorbike accidents are very common over here, and most expats I know have seen the aftermath of atleast a few fatal crashes. I've seen two of these, as well as countless other more minor incidents.
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Anti-Blog Apologia
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Meandering Towards a Life Philosophy
Whenever I tell someone that I "majored" in Philosophy at college, there's a 38% chance they'll ask a question along the lines of "Who's your favorite philosopher?" or "So you've got it all figured out?" Another 20% of the time they can barely get an unbelieving "Why?" out of their mouth quickly enough.
In the former case, its a little bit of a tricky question for a few reasons. The first is that I never put any serious effort into remembering exactly who said what- "was it Locke who first developed the idea of the state of nature?"- I don't know. If your goal is to come off as the wistful, untouchable, deep and self-absorbed philosopher, I don't recommend this because if you can't name drop Spinoza or Hume you'll probably come off as a poser. Seriously though, I don't recommend this because without remembering who said what, its much harder to place ideas in their context, which the more I've learned about philosophy the more I've appreciated. Plus, you'll do better on exams.
Another reason that question is difficult is that despite my degree in philosophy, I've read barely a fraction of what's out there. This was driven home to me when I came to Vietnam and realized that the fact that I had never studied eastern philosophy left a gap 4 billion people wide in my qualifications as a philosopher.
The reason I didn't pay much attention to names was that I was intrested primarily in the ideas themselves, both the grand and minor trains of thought that woven together form the patchwork fabric of man's attempt to make sense of the universe. That's what science is, and all science originated as philosophy. You'll find the first phyiscs, biology, and physics in the likes of Aristotle, and only once we had a means of discovering facts about scientific subjects did they transition from philosophy to science. This works well for questions that DO have answers (go away, relativisists). There's a physical explanation for how plants grow, why you come back to earth when you jump (well, kind of. We still haven't reconciled General Relativity and Quantum Mechanics, but we still have a pretty solid idea of what gravity is). For questions that don't (yet) have answers, well those you'll have to explore in the realms of philosophy. How do you physically explain the way you experience sounds, or tastes? What happens if you go beyond the edge of the universe? What does that even mean? And most relevantly, why are we here? What should we do with our lives?
Of course, there is no one answer to this last question, but you can acknowledge that and still believe that some ways of thinking about it are better than others. You might also recognize that exposing yourself to the different ideas out there will give you more armor and ammunition for when you blaze your own trail in pursuit of your answers. Which all is to say that my goal in studying philosophy was to immerse my mind in the thoughts themselves, in the hope of internalizing them so that I would be better equipped to figure things out myself.
This brings me to a last point, all going back to my explanation about why I find it difficult to answer the question "Who is your favorite philosopher?". Most (not all) of the philosophy you would study in school deals politics, or ethics, or morality, or existence, or the nature of the universe. It is nearly all abstract; abstract in that it won't give you a blueprint for exactly what to do, or it won't tell you exactly what to do, it will give you some abstract representation of what kinds of things you should do. In any case, they nearly often neglect to strike a balance that I find acceptable between a person's various needs. Completely understanding political philosophy won't make you a self-actualized person, nor will a fully-informed ethical code; its how it all weaves together and affects the way you actually live that is important.
Putting everything together and thinking about how you should or want to live your life is something you have to do for yourself. Its a never-ending process, but below you'll find a stab I took at outlining my personal philosophy. For one of my favorite classes during my senior year, "Engineering Dreams: Entrepreneurship and Good Work", the final project was to put together a framework that represented your approach to life. Below is the result of a semester's worth of knowledge, a lifetime's worth of experience, and about twenty-five hours of good ole' fashioned work.
Saturday, May 9, 2009
Continuing Life Education in the Digital Age
Friday, April 3, 2009
Pride and Prejudice and Zombies

The idea of this just made me laugh out loud. Written by Seth Grahame-Smith (and of course Jane Austin), Smith splices the classic novel with zombies ("unmentionables") in an apparently praise-worthy way. While I haven't read the book, as a huge fan of zombie movies I'm sure that its entertaining. I'm hopeful that this book starts a new genre, I'd love to see Tom Sawyer spliced with an alien invasion, or The Count of Monte Cristo as a vampire tale.
Wednesday, April 1, 2009
Absence, Explained
Friday, March 6, 2009
Essential Websites
Sunday, March 1, 2009
25 Random Things (Jess in Vietnam Edition)
2) Nearly as bad as the actual pollution in Vietnam is the noise pollution. The roads are dominated by motorbikes, and everyone makes liberal use of their horns. Often times, its born out of frustration as much as it is necessity, but either way its a huge annoyance. I've started counting how many different beeps I hear in a given ten second period, and usually I'll hear more than 10 in that time period. I'm just thankful everyone's not armed.
3) Vietnamese is an extremely difficult language for a foreigner, with six tones (one more than Chinese) and a strong emphasis on pronunciation. Sometimes, I'll repeat over and over the name of the road I'm trying to go to, and if I'm trying to go Pasteur Street, I'll say"Pass tuer, Pahtoo-er, Pashtoo-er, Patoor, Passtoor". All to no avail. Then I'll write it down, and the motorbike driver will say "Ahhhh, Pass-Toor". I have no effing idea why he didn't understand me when I said it the EXACT same way, but apparently its very difficult for the Vietnamese to understand unless you say it perfectly, on account of the emphasis on pronunciation. Sometimes its funny, usually I'm just left scratching my head.
4) If you haven't already, check out fmylife.com . I found it two weeks ago and I laugh out loud every time I check it.
5) I went kitesurfing for the first time four weeks ago in Munei, a pleasant beach three hours from Saigon. Scary as hell. The kites are extremely powerful, as you'll know if you've ever seen the videos of guys getting launched twenty feet in the air with them. When I first got in the water with the kite, I was immediately launched six feet into the air, leaving my instructor behind before getting slammed into the water and being dragged by the kite face-first. I could barely breathe, the instructor was shouting "pull the release!", and it took me a good fifteen seconds of madness before I could release the kite, stop the insanity and enjoy a breath of nice air. Things got better from there, and you haven't heard the last about me and kitesurfing.
Ok, somehow I came up with 25 things, comments welcome!






